This two-part progression develops the technical rope skills necessary to get yourself and an incapacitated partner off from vertical terrain and back to the ground safely. Participants learn solutions for helping out an injured partner in a lead fall scenario as well as how to help an injured follower in multi-pitch settings.

We will focus on efficient and effective use of the gear that is on your harness to accomplish companion rescue. While the progression is built around a theoretical worst case scenario, (we hope never to encounter), the skills and tools used for these drills have a wide variety of implementations and uses in everyday problem solving at the crag and in the mountains.

We strongly recommend the Intro to Companion Rescue program as a pre-cursor to the Advanced Companion Rescue program.

Recommended Gear List:

• Climbing harness

• Climbing helmet

• 4-5 meter cordelette

• 1 prussik cord

• 2 double length slings (at least one sewn nylon sling recommended)

• 2 single length slings

• 5 locking carabiners (at least two HMS lockers recommended)

• 4 non lockers

• 1 tube-style belay device (ATC-Guide, Reverso, etc)

• 1 assisted braking device (Grigri, Pilot, Megajul, etc)

• 1 progress-capture device (optional. Microtraxion, Spoc, etc)

Topics and progression:

• Intro to Companion Rescue

  • Overview of climbing equipment including different materials and limitations of use

  • Essential knots and hitches

  • Methods of ascending a fixed line and self-belay

  • Single-pitch rescue scenarios including pick-offs and transferring a belay

• Advanced Companion Rescue

  • Rappel techniques, including rappelling with an injured partner

  • Escaping the belay from harness and anchor

  • Load transfers

  • Lowering

  • Haul systems